2000s

REcessionista

“A person with such innate sense of fashion that can they can endure times of burden and misfortune as in a poor economy and still keep on looking their best with extraordinary style. A recessionista never allows a recession or a poor economy to impair their wardrobe so they become creative when shopping on a budget and sometimes even make their own unique fashion from scratch or old clothing and manage to remain in the style of the current fashion trends
as they do so.”(Urban Dictionary)

With a runway of broken mirrors surrounding a garbage heap made of props from his own past collections, Mr. McQueen created a stage to symbolize the sudden crash of luxury exuberance.

The outfit made from bin bags..Aledander Mcqueen A?W 2009

All the models wore hats by the milliner Philip Treacy that were made of trash-can liners and aluminum cans, or recycled household objects; the makeup, inspired by the mad look of Terry Gilliam’s “Brazil,” gave the models the appearance of plastic faces that were all lips. The music, as well, was a mash-up of songs from his prior shows, with bits of “Vogue” and Marilyn Manson’s “Beautiful People.”

“Of course, black is like a mask,” says Lacroix, who calls this shift in sensibility a new minimalism.

More recent films, like Tim Burton’s Sweeney Todd, have also inspired the somber palette. “We’re seeing a lot of dark movies these days, and they definitely influence the color story,” says Leatrice Eiseman, executive director of the Pantone Color Institute. “Black is always the color people rely on most often in tough times, especially if they’re going to spend on big-ticket items.”

The Vogue Story,Dolly Jones, 17 July 2009

SAVING MONEY??

“I think when I was very young and I suddenly started earning a bit of money and I could actually afford to buy shoes, I got very excited and bought a lot. I mean a lot! I haven’t bought any in quite a while. Now I just rent them for the day. They give them to me for the day and I give them back in the evening, which is good.” (Kiera Knightly)

RISE OF DESIGNER COLLABORATIONS with High street Fashion!!

Designers have collaborated with chain stores before, but demand for the cut-price designer lines has hit an unprecedented level with retailers saying some items are selling out before they even go on display. As the luxury market struggles – the Prada Group has reported a drop in earnings of 22% this year – more designers are looking to cash in on the discount boom. ( The Guardian)

For spring and summer 2009, the British designer Matthew Williamson created two exclusive ranges for the company – the first being a collection of women’s clothes released in selected stores. The second collection saw Williamson branch into menswear for the first time, only in selected stores. The second collection also featured swimwear for men and women and was available in every company store worldwide.

On 14 November 2009, the company released a limited-edition diffusion collection by Jimmy Choo featuring shoes and handbags, ranging from £30 to £170 including a range of men’s shoes. The collection also included clothing designed by Choo for the first time

Sonia Rykiel also collaborated with the company, by designing a ladies knitwear and lingerie range that was released in selected company stores on 5 December 2009

AMERICA’S NEW HOPE

Both street trend and high fashion responded to America’s new glory hope: President Obama.

A model presents a creation featuring U.S. presidential nominee Barack Obama
Designer – Jean Charles de Castelbajac in Paris

Rodarte for Sonia Rykiel, Spring 2009 RTW

Guillermo Mariotto (2009) sent an American model down the catwalk draped in the ankle-length, long-sleeved kaftan made of natural fiber.

Yep, even bad girls like Obama! Danity Kane singer Aubrey O’Day joins the trillions of celebrities who have all publicly declared their support for presidential nominee, Barack Obama.

Other Celebs who support OBAMA……

Recerence :

http://www.elephantjournal.com/2009/03/alexander-mcqueen-the-art-of-recycling-and-the-throw-away-habits-of-the-fashion-industry-a-fall-2009-paris-collection/ (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,1725954,00.html (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://showstudio.com/collection/alexander_mcqueen_paris_womenswear_a_w_09 (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=recession%20chic (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/H%26M#Guest-designer_collaborations (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://ftape.com/media/?p=1197 (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

https://www.cinderella-me.co.uk/ (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://www.starpulse.com/news/index.php/2009/03/25/keira_knightley_saves_money_buy_renting_ (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2009/may/03/recession-chic-fashion-high-street (Accessed: 21 March 2012)

 

FASHION & TECHNOLOGIES

BOUDICCA

Today we have a guest lecture Zowie Broach and she is the british designer of the brand Boudicca. The brand named after an ancient British warrior queen—fierce (and fiercely independent) since its inception in 1997.

During the lecture she talked about alot of thing but the only thing stuck with me how much important and influences of  technologies toward future fansion. During the lecture I realised how little I know about the use of technologies in Fashion. So I decided to research about it.

Miyake’s most popular collection A-POC is an acronym of A piece of cloth. The hi-tech seamless knitting machinery used in A-POC production produces a tube of farbic that contains an entire outfit, ready to be cut out by the wearer.  The idea being that the end product is a garment which the wearer can interact with by altering the shape and length. The A-POC collection made Miyake one of the top fashion ‘revolutionaries/researchers/developers’.

SPRAY ON FABRIC CAN

The naked model is sprayed with Mannel Torres’s Fabric can – a fine mist of coloured cotton fibre that build up layers as and where required. Once a fibre layer is established, it can remainas a second skin or be peeled back to creat volume and drape. Additional details and features can be integrated by placing extra cloth or decoration on the body and spraying over the top to keep them in place.

Transparent Coat 2003

Professor Susumu Tachi of the University of Tokyo demonstrated the principle of optical camouflage with his ‘transparent’ coat. A masked object has a background image (captured with a video camera) projected onto it. This makes it appear transparent and the viewer is fooled into thinking they are seeing ‘throung’ the wearer.

Hussein Chalayan

After Words A/W 2000

Before Minus Now S/S 2000

In his collection Chalayan showed a remote-controlled dress to imply that intangible forces were at work. The hard resin shell suddenly opened to expose a cloud of pink tulle.

KNIT TO FIT

Designer Sandy black used 3D body scanning to creat perfectly fitting knitwear.

BIO-COUTURE

Designer Suzanne Lee uses bacteria to grow a jacket!

MONSTER BALL Oct 4 2011

Move your mouse around the frame to explore Daniel Brown’s interactive based on imagery from Lady Gaga’s Monster Ball tour. 3-D scanning by Kev Stenning at Rapido3D

Follow the Link http://showstudio.com/project/monster_ball#interactive_02

Reference :

Suzanne, L. (2005) Fashioning the Future, Tomorrow’s Wardrobe. London:Thames and Hudson

http://antenna.sciencemuseum.org.uk/trashfashion/home/wearwithoutwaste/cut-it-out/sandy-black/ (Accessed: 15 March 2012)

http://nymag.com/fashion/fashionshows/designers/bios/boudicca/ (Accessed: 15 March 2012)

http://showstudio.com/project/monster_ball#interactive_02 (Accessed: 15 March 2012)

 

1990s

1990s

In Burma politically very unstable throughout the decade.

for her peaceful and non-violent struggle under a military dictatorship in Burma. She is a nonviolent pro-democracy activist and leader of the National League for Democracy in Burma

She remained under house arrest in Burma for almost 15 of the 21 years from 20 July 1989 until her most recent release on 13 November 2010

The 2000 song “Walk On” by U2 is about her, according to Bono.He was wearing printed T shirt of here on his music video.Suu Kyi was regularly mentioned as the song was played during 2001’s Elevation Tour. During the 2009 leg of the 360° Tour, the band invited fans to wear masks of Suu Kyi’s face (printable from their website) during the song “Walk On”

“Unplayed Piano” by Damien Rice was written for Suu Kyi following a visit by Damien to Burma in July 2004. Proceeds from the sale of the single go to the Burma Campaign UK.

Actress Michelle Yeoh portrays Aung San Suu Kyi in the 2011 film The Lady, directed by Luc Besson

LOLITA SUBCULTURE

Lolita is one of the most popular new Japanese subcultures, and has begun to appear in countries across the world. The look is little girl, tea party cute, starting with black hair ribbons or tiny bonnets and moving to frilly dresses and thick platform boots or Mary Jane flats, often augmented with a lace umbrella to protect the as-milky-as-possible complexion on sunny days.

Accessories that are popular for Lolita include bonnets and headdresses, rocking horse shoes, parasols, petticoats, and frilled knee socks.

Gothic Lolita

Originated in the late 1990s in Harajuku.

Gothic Lolita fashion is characterized by darker make-up and clothing.Red lipstick and smokey or neatly defined eyes, created using black eyeliner, are typical styles, although as with all Lolita sub-styles the look remains fairly natural.Though Gothic make-up is associated with a white powdered face.uses dark color schemes including black, dark blues and purples, although black and white remains popular. As with some Western Gothicstyles, cross jewelry,religious symbols, bags and purses in shapes like bats, coffins, and crucifixes are also used to accessorize the Gothic Lolita look.

Sweet Lolita

Sweet Lolita is heavily influenced by Rococo styles as well as Victorian and Edwardian clothing. fantasy aspects of Lolita, uses lighter colors and childlike motifs in its design.

Outfits consist of pastels, fruit themes (cherries or strawberries, or any type of sugary fruit), flowers (roses, jasmines, lily, cherry blossoms) lace, bows, animal themes (cats, bunnies, puppies) and ribbons to emphasize the cuteness of the design. Jewelry often reflects this fantasy theme. Headdresses, bonnets and bows are a popular hair accessory to the sweet Lolita look. Examples for Sweet Lolita brands are Angelic Pretty, Baby, The Stars Shine Bright

Classic Lolita

Classic Lolita is a more mature style of Lolita that focuses on Rococo, Regency, and Victorian styles. Colors and patterns used in classic Lolita can be seen as somewhere between the Gothic looking and sweet styles; it is not as dark as gothic Lolita, but not as cutesy as sweet Lolita. more sophisticated, mature Lolita style because of its use of small, intricate patterns, as well more muted colors on the fabric and in the overall design.^[12] and more functional. brands include Juliette et Justine, Innocent World, Victorian Maiden, Triple Fortune, and Mary Magdalene..

Punk Lolita

Punk Lolita (or Lolita Punk) adds punk fashionelements to Lolita fashion. Motifs that are usually found in punk clothing, such as tattered fabric, ties, safety pins and chains, screen-printed fabrics, plaids, and short, androgynous hairstyles are incorporated into the Lolita look. The most popular garments are blouses or cutsewsand skirts, although dresses and jumper skirts are also worn. Common footwear includes boots, Mary Janes or oxfords with platforms.

Common Punk Lolita brands are A+Lidel, Putumayo, h. NAOTO and Na+H. Many of the Japanese punk Lolita fashion brands take influence from London’s famous Camden Town Markets.

And My Favourite Lolita  …WA LOLITA

Wa Lolita is a form of lolita fashion incorperating traditional Japanese clothing elements whilst still keeping the lolita silhouette.

Wa Lolita dresses commonly consist of a modified Kimono to fit with various Lolita graments. Although another way is to have a otherwise normal lolita dress made with fabrics that have a Japanese look to them.

90s trends and ME 😉

References:

http://www.burmacampaign.org.uk/ (Accessed: 11 March 2012)

‘Aung San Su Kyi’ Wikipedia. Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aung_San_Suu_Kyi (Accessed : 11 March 2012)

‘Lolita Fashion’ Wikipedia. Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lolita_fashion (Accessed : 11 March 2012)

http://www.japantimes.co.jp/text/nn20080807f2.html (Accessed: 11 March 2012)

 

 

1980s

Andy Warhol in tuxedo and jeans. Franco Moschino wearing a necktie under his black leather biker jacket. Giorgio Armani with a hooded sweatshirt undre a Prince of Weals check jacket. Ray Petri in Military bomber jacket and pinstriped pants. These are all images from the eighties. And each of those images , in its own way, dialectically juxtaposes the two terms that have defined and still define male fashion, its birth and its evolution: sartorial tradition and sportswear.

From Giorgio Armani to Jean Paul Gaultier and from Gianni Versace to Yohji Yamamoto, the theme of the oversize garment was constant, all the way through the eighties. Not only beause it satisfied the desire for comfort expressed in sportswear, but also becuase it responded to precise social change. the generation that emerged from the protests and rebellions of the sixties and seventies had developed a revolutionary taste for the outsized, through dressing in secondhand clothes.

In 1980s men were wearing flamboyant clothes, make up , long hairs and women were wearing musculine colthes with shorhair. there was a bisexual vibe to the subculture generally, regardless of the individual’s sexual orientation.

Grace Jones: Nightclubbing (1981)

Grace Jones with androgynous look, with square-cut hair and angular, padded clothes.

“pull up to the bumper” by grace jones 1981

The gender lines were further blurred in her concept tour, A One Man Show, and throughout her music. Sting wrote the song Demolition Man for her, which featured lyrics that perfectly matched her fierce image.

Eurythmics: Touch (1983)

The dominatrix mask, the flexed muscles and the orange, boyish hair contrast with her red lipstick and nude flesh.

Anne Lennox in 1984

Who’s that Girl??

Annie Lennox, dressed as a gender-bending Elvis Presley

Mid 1980s

MODERN DAYS ANDROGUNOUS

Love Magazine- Androgyny Issue
Photgraphy: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott

Jennifer Lopez recently posed in boxing gear for the March issue of V Magazine in a series of racy images shot by famed photographer Mario Testino.

chanel-spring-2010-androgynous

References:

Frisa, M.(ed.) and Tonchi, S.(ed.) (2004) Excess: Fashion and the underground in ’80s. Italy: Edizioni Charta.

Polhemus, T. (1997) Street Style: From sidewalk to catwalk. London:Thames and Hudson

http://www.nypost.com/p/pagesix/jennifer_lopez_said_knock_you_out_zkoFpC4PVns53Nr35KyqLI (Accesses: 28 February 2012)

 

1970s

GLAM ROCK

Glam rock (also known as glitter rock) is a style of rock and pop music that developed in the United Kingdom in the early 1970s, which was performed by singers and musicians who wore outrageous clothes, makeup and hairstyles, particularly platform-soled boots and glitter.The flamboyant costumes and visual styles of glam performers were often camp or androgynous, and have been connected with new views of gender roles.Glam rock visuals peaked during the mid 1970s with artists including T. Rex, David Bowie, Roxy Music and Gary Glitter in the UK and New York Dolls, Lou Reed and Jobriath in the US.

Bowie had taken the stage persona of “Ziggy Stardust“, a science fiction based, theatrical, enigmatic, androgynous character and produced two albums during this period including Aladin Sane!

Balmain fall 2011

References :

‘Ziggy Stardust and the spiders from Mars’ Wikipedia. Available at : http://en.wikipedia.or/wiki/Ziggy_Stardust_and_the_Spiders_from_Mars_%28film%29 (Accessed : 22 February 2012)

‘Glam Rock’  Wikipedia. Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Glam_rock (Accessed : 22 February 2012)

 

 

Pure London

We arrived Pure London around 11 am.  I was downloaded Pure London App on my Iphone on my way to Pure London so I checked the schedule. And there is a seminar for WGSN Trend forecast for A/W 12/13. It started at 11:45 so we looked around and took some pictures before seminar.

Waiting at Seminar

During the Seminar

Key speaker Lona Hall

WGSN pinpoints AW 2012/13 future trends

Hyperculture

Cultures are based on nationality or ethnicity, religion or belief, sports or music, youth or age and in this vast melting pot, the cultural crossover experienced by any one person is rich, complex – and communicative.Innovative pattern is one of the keys to Hyperculture

The crashing of cultures and the layering of design and process is both playful and provocative. Anything is possible.

Hyperculture is a global movement of mega-proportion, direction and dimension that mixes multiple cultures, times and techniques in endlessly inspiring combinations.

Radical Neutrality

In an exceedingly complex, polarised and politicised world, sometimes it’s necessary to adopt a radically neutral view. Balancing extremes, dissolving dissonance, and creating with moderation and reason demands both dedication and focus. Radical neutrality is the design version of fashion’s new modesty

.Shapes can be described as super-normal in simple, silent, well-designed contemporary archetypes.Structures are solid, and the number of objects and types of different surfaces are carefully chosen to enhance the atmosphere created by the intersection of shape, concept and colour. This space leaves room for reflection, place for pause. Radical neutrality is the new minimalism.

Ecohedonism

The Eco-hedonism trend focuses very specifically on the pleasure that the tactile beauty of nature brings. Here, we take the raw materials of the earth and transform them by the smallest amount in order to respect their integrity and spirit.

Texture is a major element, and is as visible to the eye as it is tactile to the hand. Natural surfaces, both rough and smooth, are key.

Eco-hedonism is a seasonal movement based on a profound, integrated, almost shamanistic understanding of nature, and the powerful pleasures it brings when treated with the utmost respect.

After Seminar….

And we just saw the special offer of Draper magazine for student and signed up for a year and went home.

Reference :

http://giftsandgreetingsreview.com/2011/11/21/wgsn-pinpoints-aw-201213-future-trends/

 

1960s

“PEOPLE ARE TALKING ABOUT……..Vietnam and the Negro Revolution…. and YOUTHQUAKE……the eruption of the young in every field.”

Black is beautiful is a cultural movement that began in the United States of America in the 1960s by African Americans.

What Vougue callled ” the Negro Revolution,” in other workd the civil rights movement only affected high fashion after the “ethnic” look had already become a major theme  within the hippy counterculture. Even the appearance of black models like Donyale Lina and Naomi Sims was a long time coming.

Donyale Lina

Naomi Sims

Historians often describe the 1960s as the most “revolutionary” decade in the history of fashion!!

As space became popular in 1960’s television programs like ‘Star Trek’, ‘Barbarella’ and ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ Cardin explored the idea of dressing for the future. In the late 1960’s his stark, short tunics, and his use of vinyl, helmets, and goggles launched the Space Age look.

In 1964 Andre Courreges launched the ‘space-age’ look. His success was followed by Paco Rabanne’s 1966 interpretation of the futuristic theme. Rabanne created clothing using plastic, metal and even chain mail.

BEATNIK

Beatnik was a media stereotype of the 1950s and early 1960s that displayed the more superficial aspects of the Beat Generation literary movement of the 1950s and violent film images, along with a cartoonish depiction of the real-life people and the spiritual quest in Jack Kerouac‘s autobiographical fiction.

Jack Kerouac (1960)

“Beat” came from underworld slang—the world of hustlers, drug addicts and petty thieves, where Ginsberg and Kerouac sought inspiration. ”

Beatnik Costume Fashion

The beatnik costume is a distillation of how real beats, or beatniks, dressed. Its components are simple:

• A black turtleneck
• A black beret
• Sunglasses, often clubmasters or wayfarers
• Skinny black jeans, capri pants or black pencil skirts
• Black socks or tights
• Worn down black loafers

Here are some optional elements of the beatnik fashion costume:

• A goatee or soul patch
• Bongos
• A long cigarette holder
• A book of free verse poems (yours or someone else’s)

Andy Warhol and Nico. Here are some of the essentials of beatnik style: stripes, black turtle-neck, big shades. Trés simple!

Beatniks style

Oversized chunky long sweaters with huge cowl collars were worn over slim fitting pencil skirts or slacks with stirrups. The girls usually had a French pleat hairstyle or showed the start of a beehive. Wearing all black was a favourite choice for beatniks.

 In rebellion to the frilly aesthetic of the time, many women favored capri pants, black jeans and stirrup slacks. Jewelry, if worn, often featured eastern religious symbols, reflecting the beats’ inchoate, eastern-inspired philosophy.

In 1960 Yves Saint Laurent designed his controversial “Beat Look” for the house of Doir. Inspired by the beatniks. Saint lauent also drew on other rebellious youth styles. (Fifty years of fashion, Valerie Steele)

Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2008
Over sized chunky half sleeved sweater, berets, sunglasses

PSYCHEDELIC CULTURE

During 1960s, this second ‘group’ of casual LSD users evolved and expanded into a subculture that extolled the mystical and religious symbolism often engendered by the drug’s powerful effects, and advocated its use as a method of raising consciousness. The personalities associated with the subculture, gurus such as Dr. Timothy Leary and psychedelic rock musicians such as the Grateful Dead, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Jefferson Airplane and The Beatles soon attracted a great deal of publicity, generating further interest in LSD.

Psychedelic art is any kind of visual artwork inspired by psychedelic experiences induced by drugs such as LSD, mescaline, and psilocybin. Psychedelic visual arts were a counterpart to psychedelic rock music. Concert posters, album covers, lightshows, murals, comic books, underground newspapers

Legendary poster artist Rick Griffin poses in a window surrounded by his work. San Francisco, 1960s

PINK FLOYD

Bands such as Pink Floyd, Jefferson Airplane, and the Grateful Dead helped give birth to a genre known as “psychedelic rock” or acid rock.

April 1966, LSD use had become so widespread that Time Magazine warned about its dangers.

FILMS

In December 1966, the exploitation film Hallucination Generation was released.^[32] This was followed by The Trip (film) in 1967 and Psych-Out in 1968.

PARTIES

psychedelic festivals around the world http://forum.isratrance.com/forum-festivals/

Psychedelic Festival in Thailand 2012    http://theexperience-kohtao.com/

Psychedelic Festiveal in Portugal 2012   http://boomfestival.org/boom2012/

Modern Day Psychedelic Inspired Fashion

Anna Sui Fall 2011

Alexander McQueen Spring 2009

Manish Arora fall 2010 RTW

Versace

Reference:

http://www.glamoursplash.com/2008_11_01_archive.html (2008) (Accessed : 9 February 2012)

‘History of Lysergic acid deilthylamide’ (2007) Wikipedia. Available at : http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_lysergic_acid_diethylamide (Accessed : 9 February 2012)

http://www.enjoy-your-style.com/beatnik-fashion.html (no date) (Accessed : 9 February 2012)

http://www.style.com/fashionshows/review/F2010RTW-MARORA (Accessed :9 February 2012)

Mia, C. (2010) ‘Psychedelic fashion spring-2010’ , Hippie Couture, 20 January. Available at: http://blog.hippiecouture.com/2010/01/psychedelic-fashion-spring-2010.html (Accessed : 10 February 2012)

http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-1960s-fashion-and-textiles/ (no date) (Accessed : 10 February 2012)

 

Vexed Generation..

Ingenious Design

Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter set up Vexed Generation Clothing in 1993. Their urban street wear reflects their concerns about society, civil liberties and the environment.

Vexed Parka 1994

The designers considered things like personal safety and protection against air pollution. But they also allowed more unusual ideas to influence the design of the Parka, such as civil liberties, street protest and CCTV surveillance.

The parka is made from nylon 66, a high tenacity (neoballistic) fibre used in bomb blankets. It is waterproof, fire retardant and knife proof. Its hood, which fastens with velcro at the front, protects and conceals the identity of the wearer. There are four large, secure pockets on the front of the jacket and a further pocket on the left sleeve, designed to hold a face mask. The jacket can be fastened between the legs or left loose. The trousers have quilted kneepads.

Vexed gernation + PUMA

Puma Tribranded Collapsible Bike 2004

Design Against Crime – Karrysafe

References

http://www.channel4.com/learning/microsites/R/realdesign/products/vexed_01.html (no date) (Accessed : 3 February 2012)

http://www.museumoflondon.org.uk/archive/exhibits/londonlook/pages/cat_main.asp?go=geddit&section=innovation (no date) (Accessed : 3 February 2012)