Andy Warhol in tuxedo and jeans. Franco Moschino wearing a necktie under his black leather biker jacket. Giorgio Armani with a hooded sweatshirt undre a Prince of Weals check jacket. Ray Petri in Military bomber jacket and pinstriped pants. These are all images from the eighties. And each of those images , in its own way, dialectically juxtaposes the two terms that have defined and still define male fashion, its birth and its evolution: sartorial tradition and sportswear.
From Giorgio Armani to Jean Paul Gaultier and from Gianni Versace to Yohji Yamamoto, the theme of the oversize garment was constant, all the way through the eighties. Not only beause it satisfied the desire for comfort expressed in sportswear, but also becuase it responded to precise social change. the generation that emerged from the protests and rebellions of the sixties and seventies had developed a revolutionary taste for the outsized, through dressing in secondhand clothes.
In 1980s men were wearing flamboyant clothes, make up , long hairs and women were wearing musculine colthes with shorhair. there was a bisexual vibe to the subculture generally, regardless of the individual’s sexual orientation.
Grace Jones: Nightclubbing (1981)
Grace Jones with androgynous look, with square-cut hair and angular, padded clothes.
“pull up to the bumper” by grace jones 1981
The gender lines were further blurred in her concept tour, A One Man Show, and throughout her music. Sting wrote the song Demolition Man for her, which featured lyrics that perfectly matched her fierce image.
Eurythmics: Touch (1983)
The dominatrix mask, the flexed muscles and the orange, boyish hair contrast with her red lipstick and nude flesh.
Anne Lennox in 1984
Who’s that Girl??
Annie Lennox, dressed as a gender-bending Elvis Presley
Mid 1980s
MODERN DAYS ANDROGUNOUS
Love Magazine- Androgyny Issue
Photgraphy: Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott
Jennifer Lopez recently posed in boxing gear for the March issue of V Magazine in a series of racy images shot by famed photographer Mario Testino.
chanel-spring-2010-androgynous
References:
Frisa, M.(ed.) and Tonchi, S.(ed.) (2004) Excess: Fashion and the underground in ’80s. Italy: Edizioni Charta.
Polhemus, T. (1997) Street Style: From sidewalk to catwalk. London:Thames and Hudson
Glam rock (also known as glitter rock) is a style of rock and pop music that developed in the United Kingdom in the early 1970s, which was performed by singers and musicians who wore outrageous clothes, makeup and hairstyles, particularly platform-soled boots and glitter.The flamboyant costumes and visual styles of glam performers were often camp or androgynous, and have been connected with new views of gender roles.Glam rock visuals peaked during the mid 1970s with artists including T. Rex, David Bowie, Roxy Music and Gary Glitter in the UK and New York Dolls, Lou Reed and Jobriath in the US.
Bowie had taken the stage persona of “Ziggy Stardust“, a science fiction based, theatrical, enigmatic, androgynous character and produced two albums during this period including Aladin Sane!
We arrived Pure London around 11 am. I was downloaded Pure London App on my Iphone on my way to Pure London so I checked the schedule. And there is a seminar for WGSN Trend forecast for A/W 12/13. It started at 11:45 so we looked around and took some pictures before seminar.
Waiting at Seminar
During the Seminar
Key speaker Lona Hall
WGSN pinpoints AW 2012/13 future trends
Hyperculture
Cultures are based on nationality or ethnicity, religion or belief, sports or music, youth or age and in this vast melting pot, the cultural crossover experienced by any one person is rich, complex – and communicative.Innovative pattern is one of the keys to Hyperculture
The crashing of cultures and the layering of design and process is both playful and provocative. Anything is possible.
Hyperculture is a global movement of mega-proportion, direction and dimension that mixes multiple cultures, times and techniques in endlessly inspiring combinations.
Radical Neutrality
In an exceedingly complex, polarised and politicised world, sometimes it’s necessary to adopt a radically neutral view. Balancing extremes, dissolving dissonance, and creating with moderation and reason demands both dedication and focus. Radical neutrality is the design version of fashion’s new modesty
.Shapes can be described as super-normal in simple, silent, well-designed contemporary archetypes.Structures are solid, and the number of objects and types of different surfaces are carefully chosen to enhance the atmosphere created by the intersection of shape, concept and colour. This space leaves room for reflection, place for pause. Radical neutrality is the new minimalism.
Ecohedonism
The Eco-hedonism trend focuses very specifically on the pleasure that the tactile beauty of nature brings. Here, we take the raw materials of the earth and transform them by the smallest amount in order to respect their integrity and spirit.
Texture is a major element, and is as visible to the eye as it is tactile to the hand. Natural surfaces, both rough and smooth, are key.
Eco-hedonism is a seasonal movement based on a profound, integrated, almost shamanistic understanding of nature, and the powerful pleasures it brings when treated with the utmost respect.
After Seminar….
And we just saw the special offer of Draper magazine for student and signed up for a year and went home.
What Vougue callled ” the Negro Revolution,” in other workd the civil rights movement only affected high fashion after the “ethnic” look had already become a major theme within the hippy counterculture. Even the appearance of black models like Donyale Lina and Naomi Sims was a long time coming.
Donyale Lina
Naomi Sims
Historians often describe the 1960s as the most “revolutionary” decade in the history of fashion!!
As space became popular in 1960’s television programs like ‘Star Trek’, ‘Barbarella’ and ‘2001: A Space Odyssey’ Cardin explored the idea of dressing for the future. In the late 1960’s his stark, short tunics, and his use of vinyl, helmets, and goggles launched the Space Age look.
In 1964 Andre Courreges launched the ‘space-age’ look. His success was followed by Paco Rabanne’s 1966 interpretation of the futuristic theme. Rabanne created clothing using plastic, metal and even chain mail.
BEATNIK
Beatnik was a media stereotype of the 1950s and early 1960s that displayed the more superficial aspects of the Beat Generation literary movement of the 1950s and violent film images, along with a cartoonish depiction of the real-life people and the spiritual quest in Jack Kerouac‘s autobiographical fiction.
Jack Kerouac (1960)
“Beat” came from underworld slang—the world of hustlers, drug addicts and petty thieves, where Ginsberg and Kerouac sought inspiration. ”
Beatnik Costume Fashion
The beatnik costume is a distillation of how real beats, or beatniks, dressed. Its components are simple:
Skinny black jeans, capri pants or black pencil skirts
Black socks or tights
Worn down black loafers
Here are some optional elements of the beatnik fashion costume:
A goatee or soul patch
Bongos
A long cigarette holder
A book of free verse poems (yours or someone else’s)
Andy Warhol and Nico. Here are some of the essentials of beatnik style: stripes, black turtle-neck, big shades. Trés simple!
Beatniks style
Oversized chunky long sweaters with huge cowl collars were worn over slim fitting pencil skirts or slacks with stirrups. The girls usually had a French pleat hairstyle or showed the start of a beehive. Wearing all black was a favourite choice for beatniks.
In rebellion to the frilly aesthetic of the time, many women favored capri pants, black jeans and stirrup slacks. Jewelry, if worn, often featured eastern religious symbols, reflecting the beats’ inchoate, eastern-inspired philosophy.
In 1960 Yves Saint Laurent designed his controversial “Beat Look” for the house of Doir. Inspired by the beatniks. Saint lauent also drew on other rebellious youth styles. (Fifty years of fashion, Valerie Steele)
Marc by Marc Jacobs Fall 2008
Over sized chunky half sleeved sweater, berets, sunglasses
PSYCHEDELIC CULTURE
During 1960s, this second ‘group’ of casual LSD users evolved and expanded into a subculture that extolled the mystical and religious symbolism often engendered by the drug’s powerful effects, and advocated its use as a method of raising consciousness. The personalities associated with the subculture, gurus such as Dr. Timothy Leary and psychedelic rock musicians such as the Grateful Dead, Jimi Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Jefferson Airplane and The Beatles soon attracted a great deal of publicity, generating further interest in LSD.
Adam Thorpe and Joe Hunter set up Vexed Generation Clothing in 1993. Their urban street wear reflects their concerns about society, civil liberties and the environment.
Vexed Parka 1994
The designers considered things like personal safety and protection against air pollution. But they also allowed more unusual ideas to influence the design of the Parka, such as civil liberties, street protest and CCTV surveillance.
The parka is made from nylon 66, a high tenacity (neoballistic) fibre used in bomb blankets. It is waterproof, fire retardant and knife proof. Its hood, which fastens with velcro at the front, protects and conceals the identity of the wearer. There are four large, secure pockets on the front of the jacket and a further pocket on the left sleeve, designed to hold a face mask. The jacket can be fastened between the legs or left loose. The trousers have quilted kneepads.
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